No pain, no gain…or a very, very long train in Spain June 20, 2009
Posted by bbop in food, friends, music, travel.Tags: San Sebastián, Santiago de Compostela, Wilco
1 comment so far
For some reason, maybe because I started writing this in Tulsa (more on that, I suppose, in a future post), the Jayhawks song “Tampa to Tulsa” keeps going through my head while I try to compose this recap of our time in Santiago de Compostela and San Sebastián and the trip between the two cities. Admittedly, “Santiago to San Sebastián” doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. But I guess for me, at least, the song evokes a long journey. And our 11-hour train ride across northern Spain was nothing if not long. It wasn’t entirely terrible, though. At any rate, I’m getting a little ahead of myself.
When we left off in Lisbon, we were about to catch a flight to Santiago. It’s the main city in Galicia in the northwest corner of the Iberian peninsula and, during medieval times, was one of the biggest pilgrimage sites in all of Christianity. Getting from Lisbon to Santiago was actually one of the big travel dilemmas of the trip — thanks, Wilco tour routing! — and we uncharacteristically left it unsettled until just a few days before. Our initial plan was to take a bus that would get us there relatively inexpensively, although taking about 10 hours to do so. Since we couldn’t buy the bus tickets in advance anyway, we waited to see if a potential car ride with a friend might materialize. When that didn’t work out, we were back to the bus. But after a quick Internet search and with a daylong train ride from Santiago to San Sebastián already looming, we ultimately made the grudging decision to trade some cash for a little peace of mind and booked ourselves onto a flight. In hindsight, I think it was probably a good move.
By flying instead of busing, we were able to explore Santiago’s famed cathedral a bit instead of only getting a fleeting glimpse at some ungodly hour. That would almost certainly have been our fate if we had decided to take the bus. And as we learned in Granada, it would have been a minor tragedy to visit a city with a famed attraction and not see it. I’m not going to say anything else about Santiago since my tag-team partner Brianne has already written a nice account of our time there on her blog and I doubt I could do better.
After Santiago, it was time to catch our train to San Sebastián. We initially planned to split a rental car with friends Dunja and Rob, but at some point, the decision was made to take the train instead. And although it was a long ride, weaving its way across the rugged Spanish countryside and stopping at any number of towns and cities, I have to say it was kind of enjoyable in a weird way. There was a café car nearby with a good supply of bocadillos and bebidas, and I just managed to finish the Jimi Hendrix biography I was reading, Also, I had made a surprisingly prescient purchase of a road map of Spain and it was interesting to follow our progress across the country.
What can I say about San Sebastián except that our two nights and one full day there were phenomenal? Part of that certainly had to do with the beautiful weather. And it also didn’t hurt that our hotel was literally a block from the crescent-shaped Playa de la Concha (pictured above). I’m generally a sucker for any place where you can seemingly be surrounded by urban hustle and bustle one minute and be swimming the next. San Sebastián, like Sydney, Australia, is one of those places. So despite having just a short time to do so, it was a treat to be able to take a quick dip in the Bay of Biscay and enjoy its exceedingly tranquil waters.
Other highlights of our time in San Sebastián included a very boozy evening with Dunja and Rob and Dunja’s parents on our first night in town. Much of the evening, for me anyway, will forever be lost in a haze of pacharán — a potent liqueur with flavors of sloe berries and anise — though I know that some incriminating photographic evidence exists. And we enjoyed a delicious prix fixe lunch in Martín Berasategui’s Michelin-rated Kursaal MB restaurant that, coincidentally, happened to be located at the concert venue. My main course, pictured below, was a Donostia-style stewed spider crab with a parsley foam (I believe it was actually called “parsley air.”).
Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to explore much of San Sebastián beyond the triangle between the old town (the Parte Vieja) and its adjacent hill (the Monte Urgull), the general vicinity of our hotel and the area around the venue itself. It would be nice to be able to go back and spend a few relaxing days there.
But relaxing was not often in our vocabulary on this trip, and so after our ninth Wilco show — which I think I’ll honestly remember more for the ticketing shenanigans than the show itself — we were on the move once again. (People who had bought tickets through the fan club presale were assigned some very mediocre seats and there was a sort of free-for-all in the hours immediately preceding the show to try to obtain better seats; fortunately our new friends Bea and Juan, as well as Dunja and Rob, managed to reach a pretty satisfactory resolution and we also benefitted somewhat from their success.)
Anyway I can’t say that San Sebastián was the most memorable show of the tour, but it was indisputably one of the most memorable cities. Fortunately, we would conclude our time in Spain with what promised to be another highly memorable city, Barcelona. Of course, it wouldn’t be fitting for this trip if we had a straightforward journey there. But at least this one only involved a pleasant hour-long bus ride from San Sebastián to Bilbao and a subsequent flight to Barcelona. As we had learned, it could have been worse.
Wilco//6-01-09//Palacio de Congresos e Exposicións de Galicia, Santiago de Compostela, SPAIN//support: none
Wilco (the song)/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/A Shot in the Arm/Side With The Seeds/Handshake Drugs/Bull Black Nova/You Are My Face/War On War/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/The Late Greats/You Never Know/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You/Hummingbird//e1: Misunderstood/Poor Places>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e2: Kingpin/Monday/Hoodoo Voodoo
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Wilco//6-3-09//Kursaal, Donostia-San Sebastián, SPAIN//support: none
You Are My Face/Wilco (the song)/IATTBYH/One Wing/Muzzle of Bees/A Shot in the Arm/Side With The Seeds/Handshake Drugs/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/I’ll Fight/California Stars/The Late Greats/Hummingbird//e1: Via Chicago>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e2: Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You/I’m A Wheel
Portugal, we hardly knew ye June 12, 2009
Posted by bbop in food, music, travel.Tags: Portugal, Wilco
2 comments
One of the truly unfortunate outcomes of our breakneck itinerary was that we barely had any time to spend in Portugal, a country in which I was fortunate to spend several days a few years ago and really, really enjoyed. Brianne had never been there, so I felt especially badly for her that we had essentially one afternoon to explore Lisbon before we were on the road again. Sometimes, I guess, such is the price of rock ‘n’ roll tourism.
Part of the reason we had such scant time in Portugal was that we had an epic journey from Seville to Braga, Portugal, where the next show was. Braga is a smallish city about 45 minutes drive northeast of Porto, which is about three hours’ drive north of Lisbon — I think you can see where this is going — which is about an hour-long flight from Madrid, which is about a two-and-a-half hour train ride from Seville. So it was literally planes, trains and automobiles; I think it was the trip both of us were simultaneously dreading and morbidly interested in seeing if we could actually pull off. Sure, we could have probably spent a boatload of money and found some sort of direct flight there, but what fun would that have been?
Recall that we hadn’t even gotten back to our hotel in Seville until nearly 4 a.m. because of the crazy late festival. Our train from Seville to Madrid — as it turned out, a very nice and highly recommended AVE — left at 8:45 a.m. So we were both a bit zonked by the time we finally pulled into Braga little more than an hour before that night’s show was to start. (Don’t even ask how we managed to find our hotel in Braga. We were armed with some generally unhelpful Google Maps directions and a tiny inset map that was part of the bigger map of Portugal we got from the rental car place. I recall a good amount of circling around and some silent prayer.)
Wilco certainly couldn’t have picked a more beautiful venue to make their debut in Portugal. The newly restored Theatro Circo was really nice, maybe the nicest venue we saw on the whole trip. I probably remember admiring the theater and wondering exactly who was going to come to this show more than the show itself, but it was a solid enough performance until the very end when Nels had either an amp or pedal malfunction and the show, which was probably about to end anyway, simply did.
Somehow we found a good restaurant still serving food after the show and, after being brushed off once, managed to get seated and actually eat a decent meal. (In the interim, we actually considered going to McDonald’s, which occupied a prime spot in Braga’s city center…but it was closing just as we walked up.) The next morning, we resisted the urge to sleep in and hustled out of Braga to maximize our time in Lisbon. Sorry, Braga.
That time turned out to be an afternoon, which is hardly enough time to spend in one of Lisbon’s three main sections much less get a feel for the city. Not to mention it was a warm Sunday, so the capitol was definitely in weekend mode. But we did our best, heading first to the Belém neighborhood about three miles west of downtown to visit sites like the Torre de Belém (Tower of Belém) and the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Monastery of the Hieronymites), two of the best examples of Portugal’s Manueline style of architecture. One place I definitely wanted to get back to on this trip was the Pastéis de Belém café, where they have been serving the most delicious little custard tart — its namesake, pictured at the bottom of this post — since 1837. It’s sort of like the Café du Monde of Lisbon, and I can’t think of too many things in the world I would rather eat than a plateful of those things sprinkled with a little cinnamon and powdered sugar.
After Belém, we headed took a cab up the narrow, winding streets of the Alfama district to the sprawling Castelo de São Jorge. I think you can see the castle from just about anywhere in the city — we certainly could from our hotel window (see below) — and it was a good starting point for a short walk down through the Alfama. The neighborhood, which is Lisbon’s oldest and mostly survived the 1755 earthquake that rocked the city, features some stunning views and charming old-world streets that make up sort of a small village within a city.
There was so much else to see and do in Lisbon, but alas not nearly enough time. We settled for a quick dinner on Lisbon’s notorious “eating lane” (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão), where you can’t walk more than a few steps without being approached by a menu-bearing waiter. Normally I wouldn’t have gone there to eat, but the venue for that night’s show was, by coincidence, on the same street. And what a fun show it turned out to be! Jeff had mentioned on several occasions in Braga about how there were “plenty of good seats” available for Lisbon and we again worried about how many empty seats there would be.
Our seats were some of the best that we had on the entire run, which probably had something to do with our enjoyment of the show. But for whatever reason, the band was especially loose and fed off the small, but spirited crowd. I think the moment I will remember most was two kids, a girl and a boy, coming down to the foot of the stage for the encore. During “Spiders,” Jeff leaned down to them with his guitar, handed the girl his pick and proceeded to have her strum for about 20 or 30 seconds while he changed chords with his left hand. Maybe you had to be there, but it was very cool.
Afterward, we went out for an unexpected, but fun, drink with some people we met in the lobby and called it a night. Our hastily booked, rather pricey flight to Santiago de Compostela — via Madrid, of course — beckoned early in the morning…
Wilco//5-30-09//Theatro Circo, Braga, PORTUGAL//support: none
You Are My Face/Company In My Back/One Wing/Bob Dylan’s 49th Beard/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/Radio Cure/Bull Black Nova/A Shot in the Arm/At Least That’s What You Said/Via Chicago/Impossible Germany/Jesus, etc./Handshake Drugs/You Never Know/Hummingbird//e: Poor Places>/Reservations>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)/The Late Greats/Heavy Metal Drummer/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You
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Wilco//5-31-09//Coliseu, Lisbon, PORTUGAL//support: none
Wilco (the song)/IATTBYH/Company In My Back/Kamera/Handshake Drugs/Bull Black Nova/Radio Cure/You Are My Face/Pot Kettle Black/War On War/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/Sky Blue Sky/Hesitating Beauty/Say You Miss Me/Heavy Metal Drummer/Hummingbird//e: Ashes of American Flags>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)/You Never Know/The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You
Seville sojourn June 8, 2009
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Seville, The Jayhawks, Wilco
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Haven’t had much regular Internet access for the past week, or much spare time for that matter, so I haven’t been able to update as regularly as I had hoped. But I wanted to at least get one more post in before I fly back across the pond tomorrow, so here goes.
At last report, we were leaving Granada and heading to Seville. I have this theory — and Brianne insists that it stems from my indie snob/contrarian side, or at least that I must mention that I have such a side — that the popularity of certain foreign cities with many Americans is fairly easy to explain. These are places, and they are indisputably charming, where Americans can feel like they are overseas, but where there are so many other English-speaking people around (and people and establishments that cater to them) that they don’t really have to struggle that much. Places like Barcelona or Prague or even Montreal. My point is that it’s understandable why these places have become destinations for Americans, especially of a certain age. They offer a different, and perhaps “exotic” setting, but essentially people do more or less the same things they would do anyway regardless of where they were.
In some ways, this was kind of the feeling I got from Seville. While eating dinner at the outdoor terrace of a so-so pizzeria/Italian restaurant one night, we probably heard more English spoken than Spanish. Several groups of what seemed like American college kids — perhaps celebrating the end of their semester/year abroad programs — drifted by. If not for the maze of narrow, old streets and the abundance of tapas bars, it could have been pretty much College Town, U.S.A.
If this makes it sound like I didn’t like Seville, let me attempt to dispel that notion. I think it’s a fine city with some beautiful sights. We managed to slip into the cathedral — known for its Moorish bell tower, La Giralda, as well as holding the tomb of Christopher Columbus — for a peek without paying the admission fee. And we took an interesting tour of the city’s famed bullring (pictured above) and made a slightly less interesting visit to the circa-13th century Torre del Oro. But the real charm of the city, as a friend who had spent some time there told me, was simply wandering around and getting lost in the small streets and alleyways — and we did plenty of that as well.
One added bonus of Seville was that we got to see a great lineup at the Territorios Sevilla festival. We were there to see Wilco, of course, but they ended up playing before the Jayhawks. What a treat to see these two bands together again! This was a very late festival, at least by American standards. (Wilco played from 11:45 p.m. to 1:05 p.m., and the Jayhawks from 1:40 until about 2:45 a.m.) Needless to say, we didn’t get very much sleep that night. But personally, it was fantastic to see the old Jayhawks lineup — with Gary Louris and Mark Olson, joined by Marc Perlman, Tim O’Reagan and Karen Grotberg — for the first time.
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Wilco//5-29-09//Centro Andaluz De Arte Contemporaneo, Seville, SPAIN//(Territorios Sevilla festival)
Wilco (the song)/Handshake Drugs/One Wing/IATTBYH/A Shot in the Arm/At Least That’s What You Said/You Are My Face/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/You Never Know/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You/Spiders (Kidsmoke)
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The Jayhawks//5-29-09//Centro Andaluz De Arte Contemporaneo, Seville, SPAIN//(Territorios Sevilla festival)
Wichita/I’d Run Away/Take Me With You (When You Go)/Up Above My Head/Waiting For The Sun/Red’s Song/Settled Down Like Rain/Leave No Gold/Two Hearts/Real Light/See Him On The Street/Nothing Left To Borrow/Martin’s Song/Tomorrow The Green Grass/Blue/Bad Time/Miss Williams’ Guitar
All around Andalusia May 29, 2009
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Jay Bennett, Spain, Wilco
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It’s been a busy week already, and there’s still plenty more to come. In fact I can hardly believe it’s already Friday, five days since I left Tenerife and flew to Malaga. After a day there, we headed north to Madrid for a brief look-see before returning to Andalusia and visiting Granada and Seville (from where I’m writing this post).
The week definitely got off to a sad start. Just before going to bed Sunday night, we heard a rumor that former Wilco member Jay Bennett had passed away. Of course it wasn’t long before the news was confirmed, and so it was a bit weird to be so far away and yet also share in the emotions of shock and tragedy that so many people felt. Since it was a Monday, already a slightly strange day since most museums and other attractions are closed, there wasn’t a lot of “tourist stuff” to be done. We wound up visiting the cathedral (nicknamed “La Manquita” because of its one tower; the other was never completed after funds ran out) and having a very memorable hike up a hill to the Castillo de Gibralfaro, a 14th-century Moorish castle with some interesting architecture and some great views of the city below:
Then it was onto Madrid for a very brief stay, which featured visits to the wonderful Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza — one of my favorite art museums in the world — and the massive Museo del Prado as well as a leisurely stroll through the Central Park of Madrid, the Parque del Retiro.
In keeping with the go-go nature of the week, we caught a train the next morning for Granada. The Alhambra awaited, but we wound up delaying our visit until the following day when we were able to book a tour. (Since so many people want to visit the Alhambra, we learned, you often have to secure a ticket first thing in the morning with some people camping out as early as 6 a.m. to wait for the ticket office to open. By booking a tour through the really nice parador where we stayed, we were able to bypass this step and also make a more informed visit.) It’s hard to do justice to the Alhambra and the nearby Generalife in a just a few words, but both are lovely, splendid and peaceful. I can see why the rulers of the Nasrid dynasty had these places built and enjoyed spending time there:
So that’s the latest update on what’s been seen and visited. Oh, and the Wilco shows so far have each been pretty memorable in their own way: Malaga, of course, as the first show following news of Bennett’s death; Madrid, with its venue sponsored by Haagen-Dazs and an energetic crowd; and Granada, with its odd, convention center-like venue and a relatively sparse crowd (perhaps due to the Champions League final between Barcelona and Manchester United going on at the same time).
I’m interested to see what Seville has in store tomorrow. Then it’s onto Portugal. Who said this was going to be a vacation? Haha.
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Wilco//5-25-09//Teatro Cervantes, Malaga, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Ashes of American Flags/Company In My Back/You Are My Face/Wilco (the song)/A Shot in the Arm/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/Handshake Drugs/War on War/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: Hummingbird/The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: Monday/I’m A Wheel/Hoodoo Voodoo
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Wilco//5-26-09//Teatro Haagen-Dazs Calderon, Madrid, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Sunken Treasure/Wilco (the song)/Hummingbird/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/IATTBYH/Muzzle of Bees/A Shot in the Arm/At Least That’s What You Said/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./You Are My Face/Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/Poor Places>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: Misunderstood/You Never Know/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: A Magazine Called Sunset/The Late Greats/Hoodoo Voodoo/I’m A Wheel
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Wilco//5-27-09//Palacio de Congresos, Granada, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Sunken Treasure/You Are My Face/Bull Black Nova/IATTBYH/Kamera/One Wing/Handshake Drugs/Jesus, etc./At Least That’s What You Said/Via Chicago/Impossible Germany/Hate It Here/Walken/Theologians/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e1: Misunderstood>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e2: The Late Greats/You Never Know/A Shot in the Arm/I’m A Wheel
That’s all from Tenerife May 25, 2009
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Tenerife, Wilco
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My brief sojourn on Tenerife is just about over — I’m actually at the airport waiting for my flight back to the mainland — and it’s been an interesting couple of days. It’s a place I wouldn’t mind coming back to someday and exploring further. There are a number of things I wanted to but didn’t get to see, which I’m blaming mostly on my inability to drive stick shift and trepidation about negotiating some of the supposedly treacherous roads. Among them were the primary attraction here, the Pico del Teide volcano, as well as the native black-sand beaches and some of the rock pools I read about. I also didn’t get to the town of Garachico on the western coast (which had been recommended), nor the southern part of the island (where most of the tourists go).
Regarding the latter, I’m sort of glad I didn’t make it to the south. It sounds a tad tacky — an English-speaking friend I made here likened it to Atlantic City, and I don’t think she meant that as a compliment — and overcrowded with English and German tourists and the establishments that cater to them. By contrast, I spent my time (both by necessity and design) exclusively in the north, in La Laguna and Santa Cruz. The old town of La Laguna — primarily known a college town — is a Unesco World Heritage Site, so I was happy to walk around and admire some of the beautiful buildings. From there, then it was a quick tram ride to Santa Cruz, the biggest city on the island, where I spent another pleasant afternoon wandering around before seeing the kickoff of Wilco’s Spanish tour at the Auditorio de Tenerife that night.
What I liked (and found a tiny bit challenging) about Santa Cruz was that there didn’t seem to be many English speakers around at all. There aren’t very many foreign places I’ve been to where you don’t see or overhear some group of Americans or Brits at some point. But that was one surprising aspect of Santa Cruz for me: I heard virtually no English spoken. It seemed, for better or worse, like a city in which real people lived and worked. Perhaps that made it not the ideal spot for a tourist to visit, but that was refreshing in a way.
And ultimately, how many places can you sit next to a stunning venue where you’re about to see a show and, while waiting for the doors to open, read a book on a landing that looks out on the ocean toward Africa?
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Wilco//5-23-09//Auditorio de Tenerife, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, SPAIN//support: none
Wilco (the song)/Hummingbird/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/Ashes of American Flags/Bull Black Nova/You Are My Face/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/I’ll Fight/Poor Places>/Reservations>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: Misunderstood/I’m A Wheel
Food of the Canaries May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in food, travel.add a comment
These are papas arrugadas con mojo, one of the signature dishes of the Canary Islands. They are essentially new potatoes boiled and served in their skins. (Arrugadas apparently means “wrinkly” in Spanish, so they are literally wrinkly potatoes.) I had them the other night at an awesome little place called Bodegon Viana in La Laguna, Tenerife. They really good, but quite salty. I wasn’t sure, at the time, which was the mojo sauce; subsequently, I learned that they both are.
Just saying, it’s not always waterfalls and rainbows May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in travel.1 comment so far
I’m sitting at a Starbucks in a relatively deserted corner of Madrid Barajas airport, drinking an iced latte and waiting for my connecting flight to Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos). Tough life, right? But especially on long journeys like this one, I’m reminded that traveling isn’t always as great as it sounds. It can be tiring, confusing and soul-crushing, sometimes simultaneously. Luckily I’ve had a pretty uneventful trip so far, but I’m not there yet. By the time I get to Tenerife, I will have been in transit for more than 24 hours with all the griminess and fatigue that entails. And I’m sure that my blood pressure has gone up at least a few ticks from stressing about making my flight to London Gatwick last night (rush-hour traffic on the Van Wyck Expressway) and worrying about whether my bag will make it (checked through on three separate flights=many opportunities to get lost).
If you’ve got unlimited financial resources or someone taking care of all the details, then I suppose travel is pretty easy. But if you’re trying to do it, more or less, on your own, then it gets tougher. Aside from the things I’ve already mentioned, you’re also worried about whether you’ve complied with all of the different luggage restrictions (weight, liquids, number of bags); about being able to function when you don’t really speak the primary language in a given country; about whether reservations and arrangements you’ve made on the Internet will all work out and what you’ll do if you don’t. And that’s on top of your normal travel concerns like being pickpocketed or otherwise robbed, losing or breaking something important and just getting around.
Then there are instances when you might do everything right and still run into problems. I witnessed this on a very small scale while waiting to clear security for my flight from London to Madrid. Right in front of me in line was a slightly harried Italian couple with a small child. They had with them what looked like a souvenir umbrella — a full-length one, with a wooden tip — still wrapped in its plastic sheath. Evidently, they had no problem carrying it on the plane with them in New York, but they were told they couldn’t bring it through now. When the man protested, he was told, “That’s New York, this is England.” If they wanted to bring the umbrella with them, they would have to go back to the ticket counter, check it and then go through security again. To me, that would be the height of frustration because how are you supposed to know that? Ultimately, I realize I’m extremely fortunate to travel as much as I do, so don’t cry for me. But I think it’s also worth pointing out that being the proverbial stranger in a strange land isn’t a total cakewalk either.
UPDATE: Somewhat miraculously, my bag actually arrived without incident in Tenerife! I must commend British Airways and Iberia and the entire OneWorld alliance on this one. Muchas gracias!
To and fro May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in friends, music, travel.Tags: Bill Frisell, Flight of the Conchords, John Doe, Jon Brion, Leonard Cohen, Martin Rivas, Nels Cline, Old 97's, Pronto, Robbie Fulks, Sara Watkins, Sharon Jones, Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings, St. Vincent, Stained Radiance, Steve Earle, Theresa Andersson, Tim Easton, Wilco
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In the interest of keeping things relatively in the present, as I promised, I figured I should give a quick (or perhaps not-so-quick) update of what I’ve been up to in recent weeks…
About a month ago, I hit the road for a week in the South. A certain band I like did a short southern series of shows, of which I caught the ones in Athens, Ga., Asheville, N.C., Birmingham, Ala., Oxford, Miss., and finally New Orleans. I think my favorite venue easily was Sloss Furnaces in Birmingham. It’s an old ironworks turned into a National Historic Landmark where they now hold the occasional concert. I had pretty low expectations for this show, but the memorable setting seemed to energize the band. And when a member of their road crew surprised the band by coming out shirtless to play cowbell on the last song, well, it just seemed to put an exclamation point on the evening.
After the final show of the tour at Jazz Fest in New Orleans, I made my way up to Madison, Wis., via Chicago (haha) to see Flight of the Conchords with Brianne. I had seen both of their shows in New York, but it was nice to be able to focus on some specific aspects of the show since I sort of knew what to expect overall. And any show with “Albi, the Racist Dragon” is a winner for me. Brianne was gracious enough to have me over at her house for a few days and so I stuck around for Robbie Fulks’ 50-Vc. All-Stars show (with Jenny Scheinman and Nora O’Connor, among others) at the end of that week. I also went to Miller Park in Milwaukee for the first time to take in a Brewers game with some friends; visited the New Glarus Brewing Company and had a nice meal in that Swiss-tinged small town; and scored a nice vinyl haul at Strictly Discs, a very cool record store in Madison.
A brief weekend stopover in Chicago followed, where I attended my first Cubs game of the season (a win over the Florida Marlins on an absolutely gorgeous afternoon when the team retired the No. 31 jersey of Ferguson Jenkins and Greg Maddux). That night, I also caught the Old 97’s show at the Cubby Bear. It was one of two shows they did that weekend as the headliners of WXRT’s Cinco de Mayo celebration and I didn’t have very lofty expectations, but they dusted off some old gems such as 504 and W-I-F-E, so it was better than I thought.
Back home, I found out about St. Vincent’s free in-store at the Virgin Megastore Union Square in time to attend and get my pre-ordered copy of her new album Actor signed. It’s hard to believe that by the end of May, there will no longer be a Virgin Megastore in New York. The following night, I made it to three different shows — Tim Easton at Mercury Lounge, John Doe with the Sadies at City Winery and the last hour or so of Martin Rivas and Craig Meyer’s Wednesday Night Campfire at Prohibition. All were pretty stellar. A couple of days later it was off to Washington, D.C., for a couple of days to go to two shows by Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings at the 9:30 Club with Heidi. We both love SJ and the DKs, so I had a lot of fun dancing (not onstage, of course) and hanging out with her. But it was a quick trip because I wanted to get back home in time for a rare solo set by Nels Cline at the Stone. Nels says he’s terrified of playing by himself, but I thought it was a strong effort even with some of his gear breaking down mid-set. It was Mother’s Day and he closed with “Cymbidium” from his latest record Coward, a piece dedicated to his late mother. It was really touching.
Shortly thereafter, I headed to Los Angeles for about five days. I hadn’t planned all that far in advance on making this trip, but things seemed to align on the Largo at the Coronet calendar with some shows I had wanted to check out. And thanks to the graciousness of Andrew and Evonne, who lent their couches, I was able to swing it. So I got to see Theresa Andersson, a New Orleans-by-way-of-Sweden singer-songwriter whose most recent album Hummingbird, Go! was a favorite recent discovery; Sara Watkins, whose new self-titled record is really solid; and, of course, Jon Brion. I’m really glad I got to see all three shows. Seeing Andersson live is quite fascinating because of all the looping she does to construct her songs. Watkins’ return to Largo for the first time since her record came out was, of course, a special occasion and she had a terrific band for this gig that included Benmont Tench and her brother, Sean, as well as Sebastian Steinberg and Greg Leisz. And Brion is trying some different things out lately, using some multimedia elements with film loops playing behind him on a screen while he puts music to them, for instance, and focusing on playing strictly by himself without his usual cadre of special guests.
Another reason why I decided to make this LA trip was an opportunity to catch a show by Scarnella (Nels Cline and Carla Bozulich) and Pronto (Mikael Jorgensen’s side project). They played at the Mint, a small throwback of a club in Hollywood. The Scarnella set instead became a Stained Radiance gig, as it turned out, because Carla couldn’t make it that night. Stained Radiance is a duo Nels plays in with the painter Norton Wisdom, who paints on a big, illuminated screen while Nels adds his unique brand of improvised sound. Pronto, which I had seen a few times back on the East Coast, continues to become more cohesive as a working band each time I see them. So it was a good night, all in all. During my stay I also got to see a free in-store by Steve Earle at Amoeba Records, where he was promoting his latest release, Townes. My only regret was not being able to stay in town longer to see a few of the other shows I wanted to, including a performance by Scarnella — playing along to the Lon Chaney silent film “Laugh Clown Laugh” — with an opening set by Bobb Bruno.
But I couldn’t stay because I had a (really expensive) ticket to see Leonard Cohen at Radio City Music Hall the following night. I could write a lengthy post just about that show, but suffice it to say, I’m glad I saw him at least once. He is a charismatic, elegant performer and even though I wasn’t tremendously familiar with his repertoire beyond the big “hits,” I found myself captivated for much of the show. He played for close to three hours and although I think the show was stretched out a bit more than it needed to be with some questionable arrangements — some lengthy horn solos were reminiscent of bad smooth jazz at times — how many times to you get to see a legend?
And finally, on one of my last nights in town before leaving for Europe, I got a chance to see two terrific shows: a semi-secret gig by Bill Frisell and his 858 Quartet at the tiny Barbes in Brooklyn and an all-original show by the Martin Rivas Band (hilariously dubbed, for this performance, anyway, The Crunchy Fudge-Nut Ice Cream Bar Boys) at the Bitter End. From what I understand, the 858 Quartet — a string quartet with Frisell on electric guitar in place of one of the violins in a traditional string quartet — hadn’t played together in quite awhile and I was grateful to have heard about this intimate performance from an inside source. And seeing one of Martin’s shows where he plays his own songs is always a great time. I think the songs on his forthcoming Sea of Clouds record sound better each time I hear them. It was a fitting way to close out a very busy few weeks.
Getting on with it December 9, 2008
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Bon Iver, Colin Meloy, Jeff Tweedy, Kathleen Edwards, My Morning Jacket, Vampire Weekend
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Oy, it’s December. It’s now been more than two months since I’ve updated this thing (which I’m shamefully reminded of every time I visit certain friends’ blogs). To quote that musical sage Barry Manilow, where does the time go?
I don’t really know, to be honest. As I was watching the Bears get throttled the other night, I thought I might be able slip this post in during the waning minutes of November, so as to at least post one damned thing in the 11th month. But it was not to be, so instead this comes to you from the first few hours of that final month of the year (and the nine days since). Since the clock is ticking on 2008 and I’ve promised myself — and a reader or two — that I’ll have this thing caught up by the end of the year, I guess I’d better get a move on.
So forthwith, the first in a series of month-by-month updates (beginning with April when, you might remember, I returned from several weeks gallivanting in Australia and New Zealand) that will hopefully achieve the aforementioned goal in an expeditious and relatively painless fashion:
After getting back from Down Under, my first show was Bon Iver at the Lakeshore Theater in Chicago, my first time seeing him/them and my first time at the venue. I hadn’t really been able to get into Bon Iver’s much-praised record For Emma, Forever Ago as quickly as some, but hearing the songs live (by my recollection, they simply performed the album in order, in its entirety) really made a difference. It helped that the venue — a surprisingly intimate, converted movie theater — was ideal for this show. We sat toward the back, but there really wasn’t a bad seat in the house. In that setting, the haunting beauty of the record really had a chance to be revealed. And it was. …
A few days later, we all gathered at the Hotel S ‘n’ S for what has become an annual highlight of the past few years, a basement show with Jeff Tweedy. I can never really sum up what a great night it is, but a couple of highlights included a sublime performance of “The Unwelcome Guest” and a tremendous rendition of “Sir Duke” (by Martin Rivas) that I don’t think I’ll ever forget. …
I hung around Chicago the next week to see a couple of Cubs games, but wound up only seeing one because of a rainout. I also took a quick trip down to Louisville to catch Kathleen Edwards, who was touring with her excellent band in support of her great new record, Asking For Flowers. What can I say? I’m a sucker for Canadian female singer-songwriters, I guess (ahem, Sarah Harmer). I just always enjoy seeing Kathleen, who has perfected that mix of sassiness and tenderness that makes her so appealing to many men and, judging by the group of very affectionate lesbian couples in front of me, women as well. Anyway, she did a nice mix of new and old and even a duet with opener Dan Wilson on his song “Secret Smile.” (Why did I have no idea that Wilson led the band Semisonic?). A few hours after the show, while napping and waiting for my very early flight back to Chicago, I was awakened by a rumbling that I later found out was an earthquake. Not sure if it had anything to do with the show, but I guess I’ll always think of that one as slightly earth shaking. Ha ha. …
Back in Chicago, I went back to the Lakeshore Theater to see a comedy show headlined by Todd Barry (of “Flight of the Conchords” fame). I also intended to go see the late show at the Lakeshore that night with the band The Fiery Furnaces, but I ended up selling my ticket and going out for a late night with Sam, Kris, Jeff and Daniel. … The next night, April 20, Sam and I went to the Riviera Theatre to see the double bill of The New Pornographers and Okkervil River (who had Charles Bissell of The Wrens touring with them on guitar). This was NPs with Neko but sans Dan, but fortunately they still did “Myriad Harbour,” with Okkervil’s Will Sheff standing in on vocals. They hadn’t played it when I saw them the last time. … The next night, my last in Chicago on this trip, I went to see the first of three Colin Meloy solo shows that I would see before the end of the month. …
Back in New York for the first time in more than a month, I only had a couple of nights before I hit the road again. The first I spent in Brooklyn seeing Jay Reatard at Europa. Since there were four bands on the bill (and, as I get older and more curmudgeonly, I’m less willing to stand through all of them), I tried to time it so that I would miss at least one and maybe two of them. But of course, despite what I thought was a tardy arrival, I still arrived before the first band had even gone on. Fortunately, each act played a fairly short set (including Jay, who blazed through his in what couldn’t have been more than 35 minutes). … The next night I had bought an advance ticket to see Destroyer at Bowery Ballroom, but skipped out when I found out that Nels Cline was playing two shows at the Jazz Standard as part of Cryptogramophone Week. The first was as member of the Jeff Gauthier Goatette, a fusion-y band whose music I’ve always enjoyed. The late set was a rare duo show with Nels and his twin brother (and percussionist extraordinaire) Alex Cline. I can’t remember what they played just now, if it even was anything specific, but it was probably improvised and certainly interesting. …
From there it was back to California for the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival. Actually, I only attended two of the three days this year (missing Prince on Saturday night…boohoo) because I drove back to L.A. to see what was initially supposed to be Jon Brion’s last show at Largo before the club moved to its new location at the Coronet Theatre on La Cienega Boulevard. It turned out to not be Jon’s last show at the old Largo after all, but a fun night anyway with regulars Fiona Apple, Sara and Sean Watkins and Benmont Tench dropping by. … Later that morning, I rose, picked Evonne up and drove back to Coachella. Our primary motivation was to get there in time to see My Morning Jacket, which we did. It was a set featuring mostly material from the new record Evil Urges, though we also got a guest appearance by M. Ward on “Off The Record.” Afterward, we literally dashed over to another stage and caught most of Sons and Daughters’ set. And before we left, we lingered to watch part of Roger Waters’ headlining set (featuring Dark Side of the Moon in its entirety) from afar, taking in the spectacle of it all. I had no idea E was such a big Pink Floyd fan! …
I had pondered a visit to the Salton Sea the next day, but instead flew to San Francisco to see Devotchka at the Fillmore. Actually, I mainly was interested in Basia Bulat’s opening set, and she didn’t disappoint. Like I said, I love the Canadian female singer-songwriters. Devotchka had a lot more of a Latin sound than I thought, and less of a Slavic influence. I also seem to remember a pretty dramatic stage show with girls on swings or something like that. Anyway, it was OK but not really my thing. …
To close out the month, I saw back-to-back Colin Meloy solo shows in Santa Cruz and San Francisco. I know some people who don’t enjoy it as much when the principal songwriter of a band steps out for a solo performance, but if I really like a band’s music, I personally enjoy seeing the different side of that music that comes out in a stripped-down setting (not to mention actual different songs that a full band either doesn’t know or doesn’t often attempt). And that’s the case with the Decemberists vis a vis Colin. So over the course of the two nights, it was nice to hear a variety of songs, both new and old — as well as more than a few Smiths/Morrissey interludes. I’d be hard pressed to say which show I preferred, so I won’t. Just that it was a pleasure to have seen both.
Jeff Tweedy//4-12-08//Hotel S ‘n’ S, Chicago, IL//support: none
I’m Into Something Good/ELT/Simple Twist Of Fate [Bob Dylan] (aborted)/Hotel Arizona/Be Not So Fearful [Bill Fay]/Henry and the H-Bombs [Mott the Hoople]/Let’s Not Get Carried Away/Summerteeth/You Were Wrong/Build Me Up Buttercup [The Foundations] (w/Martin Rivas on guitar and harmony vocals)/John Wesley Harding [Bob Dylan]/The Unwelcome Guest (w/Martin Rivas on harmony vocals and Dave Mirabella on guitar)/Dreaming [Blondie]/Thirteen [Big Star]//**intermission**//Simple Twist Of Fate [Bob Dylan]/Airline To Heaven (w/Eddie O’Connor on guitar)/Outta Mind (Outta Sight)/More Like The Moon/Wait Up/Laminated Cat/Kamera/A Magazine Called Sunset/The Ruling Class/Love and Mercy [Brian Wilson]/In A Future Age/The Lonely 1/The Thanks I Get/The Long Cut (w/Dave Mirabella on guitar)/Dash 7/Hummingbird/Sir Duke [Stevie Wonder] (Martin Rivas solo)/No More Poetry/Chinese Apple/I’m Always in Love/Pecan Pie/Far, Far Away/California Stars/I Can’t Keep From Talking/Gun/Candyfloss
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Kathleen Edwards//4-17-08//Headliner’s Music Hall, Louisville, KY//support: Dan Wilson
Mercury/In State/What Are You Waiting For?/Asking For Flowers/Run/Copied Keys/I Make The Dough, You Get The Glory/Oh Canada/Scared At Night (Kathleen solo)/I Can’t Give You Up (Kathleen on violin w/ Colin Cripps and Jim Bryson)/Summerlong/Six O’Clock News/12 Bellevue/Good Things/Oil Man’s War/The Cheapest Key//e: Secret Smile [Semisonic] (duet w/Dan Wilson)/Goodnight, California/Back To Me
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The New Pornographers//4-20-08//Riviera Theatre, Chicago, IL//support: Okkervil River (w/Charles Bissell on guitar)
All The Things That Go To Make Heaven And Earth/Use It/Stacked Crooked/All The Old Showstoppers/My Rights Versus Yours/The Laws Have Changed/Twin Cinema/Challengers/The Electric Version/Testament To Youth In Verse/Unguided/Mass Romantic/Adventures in Solitude/Myriad Harbour (w/Will Sheff on vocals)/Sing Me Spanish Techno/The Bleeding Heart Show//e: Don’t Bring Me Down [Electric Light Orchestra]/The Slow Descent Into Alcoholism
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Colin Meloy//4-21-08//Park West, Chicago, IL//support: Laura Gibson
Lesley Ann Levine/We Both Go Down Together>Angel, Angel, Down We Go Together [Morrissey] outro/new song-This Is Why We Fight/The Perfect Crime No. 2/ O, Valencia! (w/Dracula’s Daughter fragment)/Apology Song/Shankill Butchers/Kingdom of Spain/Cupid [Sam Cooke] (duet w/Laura Gibson)/new song-Lovely Night/Oceanside/A Cautionary Song//e: The Engine Driver/The Mariner’s Revenge Song
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Vampire Weekend//4-25-08//Empire Polo Field, Indio, CA//[2008 Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival]
Mansard Roof/Campus/Cape Cod Kwassa Kwassa/M79/Bryn/Boston/A-Punk/I Stand Corrected/new song-White Sky/One/The Kids Don’t Stand A Chance/new song-Little Giant/Oxford Comma/Walcott
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My Morning Jacket//4-27-08//Empire Polo Field, Indio, CA//[2008 Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival]
One Big Holiday/Off The Record (w/M. Ward on guitar)/I’m Amazed/Evil Urges/Wordless Chorus/Highly Suspicious/Lay Low/Anytime/Gideon/Smokin’ From Shootin’/Touch Me I’m Going To Scream Pt. 2
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Colin Meloy//4-29-08//Rio Theatre, Santa Cruz, CA//support: Laura Gibson
California One>Youth and Beauty Brigade/Wonder/Summersong/Billy Liar/The Sporting Life>The Boy With The Thorn In His Side [Smiths] interlude/O, Valencia!/Cupid [Sam Cooke] (duet w/Laura Gibson)/Shankill Butchers/new song-Margaret Suite/Apology Song>I Don’t Owe You Anything [Smiths] interlude/A Cautionary Song//e: Raincoat Song/Tristan and Isolde/The Mariner’s Revenge Song
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Colin Meloy//4-30-08//The Fillmore, San Francisco, CA//support: Laura Gibson
Shiny>Rusholme Ruffians [Smiths] outro/Apology Song/The Soldiering Life/The Perfect Crime No. 2>Reelin’ In The Years [Steely Dan] interlude/new song-Lovely Night/new song-This Is Why We FIght/California One>Youth and Beauty Brigade/The Engine Driver/Cupid [Sam Cooke] (duet w/Laura Gibson)/Grace Cathedral Hill/Dracula’s Daughter (disco version)>/O, Valencia!/A Cautionary Song//e:The Landlord’s Daughter/The Mariner’s Revenge Song
Lands down under September 10, 2008
Posted by bbop in friends, music, travel.Tags: Australia, New Zealand, Split Enz, Wilco
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Even if I would have written this in April, as soon as I got back from Australia and New Zealand, I don’t think I would have been able to fully capture all of the things we saw and the adventures we had there. So I don’t feel too badly about recapping now, hopefully getting to most of the high points from an amazing three-plus weeks and giving you faithful readers at least some sense of what we did and saw.
(I haven’t managed to get all my photos from the trip uploaded yet, but eventually they’ll be on my Flickr page for all to see — well, if you’re my friend anyway.)
First off, I have to thank Brianne for inviting me to join her (and her company for footing most of the bill) since the trip really came about when she chose Australia and New Zealand for the destination of the extended sabbatical her company allows its employees to take every five years. I think that’s such a smart thing for a company to do because it not only makes for happy employees, but also allows them to broaden their life experience — and, as a result, come back and be a more valuable asset to the company. So good on you, Brianne’s company.
(And while we’re on the subject, kudos to the Internet as well because we certainly wouldn’t have been able to plan this trip from scratch without it. I sometimes wonder how people used to take extended trips to far-flung places without being able to book a room online or map out the distances between points. I know that travel agents used to take care of a lot of that stuff, but did they really arrange everything? I guess there was a good deal more adventure involved as well, but personally I’m glad to have at least some idea where I’m going to be staying and how long it will take to get where I’m going.)
Like I said, it would be impossible to capture everything about the trip without writing a really, really long — and probably boring, if you weren’t there — account from touching down in Sydney to taking off from Auckland. So I’m just going to try to capture some of the flavor of the trip by grouping some of my memories into a few sub-categories:
*Music: The first part of the trip was, in some ways, dictated by Wilco’s itinerary. For instance, we almost certainly wouldn’t have gone to Brisbane if Wilco hadn’t played there (and I’m glad we did because, for whatever reason, that show probably wound up being the best one we saw on the trip). We didn’t make every show the band played in Australia and New Zealand, but five of the seven wasn’t too shabby. Although Brianne actually started the trip in Melbourne without me, we didn’t see the Wilco show there because it was the last one on their tour and it wasn’t practical for us to go back to Australia once we had gotten to New Zealand. So we continued on to the South Island after Wilco’s final New Zealand show in Wellington on March 24, which was definitely the right decision. But before we headed south, we hung around Wellington an extra day to see our final show of the trip: New Zealand’s own legendary Split Enz, who were on a reunion tour. It was particularly fitting that we got to see them since we both had been singing the lyric “Aotearoa, rugged individual…” (from the song “Six Months in a Leaky Boat”) practically since we landed in “In Zed.”
*Rock pools: Since I had read a New York Times article about rock pools a few weeks before our trip, I had been a bit obsessed with visiting at least one while we were in Sydney. I’m not sure what it was, but just the idea of a pool carved out of rocks at the edge of the ocean intrigued me. Like it’s the ocean, but in a pool! Or maybe they just looked really refreshing, I don’t know. Anyway, the quest to find one happened on a Sunday afternoon after we had spent the morning touring the Sydney Opera House and walking around a bit downtown. We took a bus out to Bondi Beach — probably the most famous stretch of sand in Australia — but instead of staying there, we found an easy walk that hugged the nearby cliffs and decided to follow that for a while. After passing a couple of smaller beaches, we eventually wound up at Bronte Beach — sort of a low-key sister to bustling Bondi — and went into the rock pool there. It was just a glorious, sunny day and we spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and walking and exploring. What a day; I’ll remember it for a long time.
*Natural beauty: Oh God, I could write pages and pages about this. From the Blue Mountains outside of Sydney to the volcanic island of Rangitoto near Auckland, I saw some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen on this trip. Just New Zealand alone provided sensory overload. There was the couple of days we got to spend on the Coromandel Peninsula — about two hours drive from Auckland — where we hiked down to Cathedral Cove and dug in the sand for hot springs on Hot Water Beach. There was the gorgeous Otago Peninsula, just a short drive from Dunedin, which dead ends at the Royal Albatross Colony. And of course, there was the drive along the Southern Scenic Route from Dunedin to Te Anau (or vice versa). There are so many different scenic viewpoints and other points of interest along the way that you can’t possibly see them all. At least not in one trip.
*Fiordland: When it came to natural beauty, though, this region in southwestern New Zealand pretty much took the cake. One rainy day, we drove from Te Anau up the Milford Road to Milford Sound. There are a number of points to stop and admire the scenery along the way (Mirror Lakes, The Chasm), and despite the drizzle, we definitely took advantage. A day or two later, we took an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound that was not only one of the highlights of this region but of the whole trip. Along with six other people and a crew of two, we spent a memorable afternoon and evening aboard the Waverley, cruising in and out of the arms of this very isolated waterway. We saw more rainbows and waterfalls than we could count, helped catch fresh fish for dinner and even took a night swim (well, some of us). The only regret was that we didn’t see much in the way of wildlife, but it was nonetheless a really fantastic little trip within a trip.
*Cities: Although we got out into the countryside as much as we could, we also spent a good amount of time in urban centers. Of course, Sydney and Auckland are both world-class cities but a pleasant surprise for me was Wellington. I said this at the time, but it reminded me of San Francisco in a lot of ways. They’re both fairly hilly, have a bohemian streak and feature some stunning settings. We spent a memorable afternoon climbing up Mount Victoria and being rewarded with some phenomenal views. Before that, we took the requisite stroll down Oriental Parade (with ice creams in hand, of course). It was a pretty glorious day. I think we also visited the national museum of New Zealand, Te Papa, that morning. And I would be remiss if I failed to mention the early dinner we had at the Maori-themed Kai in the City, where we sang a couple of Maori songs with the owner/troubadour — “E hine e, hoki mai ra…” Another morning was spent all-too-briefly exploring the area around Cuba Street, kind of like Wellington’s version of the Haight. Sadly, we did not have any Flight of the Conchords sightings. Nevertheless, looking back, I could have happily spent another day or two in Welly.
*Eating and drinking: One thing we didn’t often skimp on was food. Some meals I distinctly remember: a fab brunch at bills in the Surry Hills section of Sydney (I believe I had some sort of corn fritter, made with fresh corn); sand crab lasagna for lunch in Brisbane; a gorgeous plate of natural (raw) Bluff oysters and fried blue cod and chips in Bluff; ridiculously good fast-food noodles at Otto Woo in Auckland; a heaping seafood platter with just about everything you could imagine in Dunedin. Oh, and we had one wholly unexpected but very memorable dinner at Wagamama in Sydney. Seemingly countless pastries and flat whites (like a cafe latte) were consumed, as well as several scoops of New Zealand’s famed hokey pokey ice cream. The dairy products in New Zealand, as we had been forewarned, were indeed amazingly delicious. On the beverage front, in addition to the flat whites, I also consumed copious amounts of a mysteriously tasty soda called Lemon & Paeroa — L&P, for short — whose trademarked slogan is “World Famous in New Zealand.” I also enjoyed many of the beers I tried in New Zealand, notably Mac’s and Speight’s.
*Lodging: We stayed in a wide range of places, everywhere from backpacker hostels to business-class hotels, but a couple of places definitely stood out. One was The Oystercatcher’s Cottage, pictured above, in Bluff. A tiny town at the bottom tip of New Zealand’s South Island, Bluff is where most people go to catch a ferry to Stewart Island. (We wanted to do that, but decided that we didn’t have the time to make it worthwhile.) We had been looking for a funky place to stay somewhere along the Southern Scenic Route and, after some Internet searching, found this place which is essentially a guest house run by a family. Luckily, it was available for the night we were going to be in town so we booked it (the “booking” was just a simple e-mail agreement — no confirmation numbers — and we paid in cash). And personally, I’m so glad we did because it turned out to be just the coziest place you could imagine. If you’re looking for the sterility of a chain hotel, this isn’t for you. But if you want a place with some character, stay here. Another great place we stayed was a B&B in Auckland, the Great Ponsonby. Aside from being located in a great neighborhood and featuring a cozy common room with all sorts of books and music and free WiFi, this place raised the art of hotel breakfasts to a new level. You could have a cooked-to-order breakfast that wouldn’t have been out of place in a restaurant, plus they had muesli, fruit, breads, etc., for the taking. I think my personal favorite was muesli with yogurt and fresh feijoa (a guava-like fruit that the innkeepers grew in their garden). Mmmm. One other place I should mention was the Harbourside Apartments in Sydney. What a view we had! This picture was taken from our window the morning we checked out:
*Last but not least: I must mention that I overcame my fear of heights (at least momentarily) and bungy-jumped off a bridge at the original commercial bungy site just outside of Queenstown. And without hesitation, I might add. While the girl before us had to be coaxed into taking the plunge, I am proud to say that for me it was 5-4-3-2-1, go. Somewhere there are pictures…
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Wilco//3-18-08//Enmore Theatre, Sydney, AUSTRALIA//support: Bridezilla
Sunken Treasure/Reservations>/Remember The Mountain Bed/Company In My Back/You Are My Face/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/Pot Kettle Black/A Shot in the Arm/Side With The Seeds/Via Chicago/Impossible Germany/It’s Just That Simple/Pick Up The Change/Nothing’severgonnastandinmyway(again)/ Jesus, etc./Theologians/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e: Hate It Here/Heavy Metal Drummer/The Late Greats/Red-Eyed and Blue>/I Got You (At The End of the Century)>/Monday>/Outtasite (Outta Mind)
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Wilco//3-19-08//The Tivoli, Brisbane, AUSTRALIA//support: The Mess Hall
A Shot in the Arm/Radio Cure/You Are My Face/Impossible Germany/Handshake Drugs/Pot Kettle Black/Side With The Seeds/She’s A Jar/Misunderstood/(Was I) In Your Dreams/Forget The Flowers/A Magazine Called Sunset/Jesus, etc./Too Far Apart/I’m Always In Love/I’m The Man Who Loves You/Poor Places>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e: On and On and On/Walken/Hate It Here/Can’t Stand It/Casino Queen/I’m A Wheel/Hoodoo Voodoo
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Wilco//3-22-08//Dakota Fields, Whitianga, NEW ZEALAND//[1st annual Coromandel Blues and Roots Music Festival]
You Are My Face/Side With The Seeds/Handshake Drugs/A Shot in the Arm/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You/Kingpin/I’m A Wheel//e: Monday
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Wilco//3-23-08//Bruce Mason Centre, Auckland, NEW ZEALAND//support: Miriam Clancy
Sunken Treasure/You Are My Face/Muzzle of Bees/Handshake Drugs/War on War/Side With The Seeds/A Shot in the Arm/Radio Cure/Shake It Off/Pot Kettle Black/Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/California Stars/Forget the Flowers/Jesus, etc./Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e1: Hummingbird/On and On and On/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e2: Hate It Here/Kingpin/The Late Greats
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Wilco//3-24-08//Wellington Opera House, Wellington, NEW ZEALAND//support: Miriam Clancy
Sunken Treasure/Company In My Back/You Are My Face/Side With The Seeds/IATTBYH/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/A Shot in the Arm/Reservations/Impossible Germany/How To Fight Loneliness/California Stars/Jesus, etc./Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You/Hummingbird//e1: The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Heavy Metal Drummer/Red-Eyed and Blue>/I Got You (At The End of the Century)/Monday//e2: Spiders (Kidsmoke)
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Split Enz//3-25-08//TSB Arena, Wellington, NEW ZEALAND//support: The Phoenix Foundation
Shark Attack/Poor Boy/One Step Ahead/Give It A Whirl/Nobody Takes Me Seriously/Double Happy/I Hope I Never/Message To My Girl/Dirty Creature/Years Go By/Stuff And Nonsense/Devil You Know/Matinee Idyll (129)/Strait Old Line/Pioneer/Six Months In A Leaky Boat/I Got You/What’s The Matter With You/I See Red//e1: Take A Walk/Charlie/My Mistake//e2: Bold As Brass/History Never Repeats*
* — setlist courtesy of frenzforum
