All around Andalusia May 29, 2009
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Jay Bennett, Spain, Wilco
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It’s been a busy week already, and there’s still plenty more to come. In fact I can hardly believe it’s already Friday, five days since I left Tenerife and flew to Malaga. After a day there, we headed north to Madrid for a brief look-see before returning to Andalusia and visiting Granada and Seville (from where I’m writing this post).
The week definitely got off to a sad start. Just before going to bed Sunday night, we heard a rumor that former Wilco member Jay Bennett had passed away. Of course it wasn’t long before the news was confirmed, and so it was a bit weird to be so far away and yet also share in the emotions of shock and tragedy that so many people felt. Since it was a Monday, already a slightly strange day since most museums and other attractions are closed, there wasn’t a lot of “tourist stuff” to be done. We wound up visiting the cathedral (nicknamed “La Manquita” because of its one tower; the other was never completed after funds ran out) and having a very memorable hike up a hill to the Castillo de Gibralfaro, a 14th-century Moorish castle with some interesting architecture and some great views of the city below:

Then it was onto Madrid for a very brief stay, which featured visits to the wonderful Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza — one of my favorite art museums in the world — and the massive Museo del Prado as well as a leisurely stroll through the Central Park of Madrid, the Parque del Retiro.
In keeping with the go-go nature of the week, we caught a train the next morning for Granada. The Alhambra awaited, but we wound up delaying our visit until the following day when we were able to book a tour. (Since so many people want to visit the Alhambra, we learned, you often have to secure a ticket first thing in the morning with some people camping out as early as 6 a.m. to wait for the ticket office to open. By booking a tour through the really nice parador where we stayed, we were able to bypass this step and also make a more informed visit.) It’s hard to do justice to the Alhambra and the nearby Generalife in a just a few words, but both are lovely, splendid and peaceful. I can see why the rulers of the Nasrid dynasty had these places built and enjoyed spending time there:

So that’s the latest update on what’s been seen and visited. Oh, and the Wilco shows so far have each been pretty memorable in their own way: Malaga, of course, as the first show following news of Bennett’s death; Madrid, with its venue sponsored by Haagen-Dazs and an energetic crowd; and Granada, with its odd, convention center-like venue and a relatively sparse crowd (perhaps due to the Champions League final between Barcelona and Manchester United going on at the same time).
I’m interested to see what Seville has in store tomorrow. Then it’s onto Portugal. Who said this was going to be a vacation? Haha.
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Wilco//5-25-09//Teatro Cervantes, Malaga, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Ashes of American Flags/Company In My Back/You Are My Face/Wilco (the song)/A Shot in the Arm/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/Handshake Drugs/War on War/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: Hummingbird/The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: Monday/I’m A Wheel/Hoodoo Voodoo
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Wilco//5-26-09//Teatro Haagen-Dazs Calderon, Madrid, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Sunken Treasure/Wilco (the song)/Hummingbird/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/IATTBYH/Muzzle of Bees/A Shot in the Arm/At Least That’s What You Said/Bull Black Nova/Jesus, etc./You Are My Face/Impossible Germany/Via Chicago/Poor Places>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: Misunderstood/You Never Know/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: A Magazine Called Sunset/The Late Greats/Hoodoo Voodoo/I’m A Wheel
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Wilco//5-27-09//Palacio de Congresos, Granada, SPAIN//support: Akron/Family
Sunken Treasure/You Are My Face/Bull Black Nova/IATTBYH/Kamera/One Wing/Handshake Drugs/Jesus, etc./At Least That’s What You Said/Via Chicago/Impossible Germany/Hate It Here/Walken/Theologians/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e1: Misunderstood>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e2: The Late Greats/You Never Know/A Shot in the Arm/I’m A Wheel
That’s all from Tenerife May 25, 2009
Posted by bbop in music, travel.Tags: Tenerife, Wilco
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My brief sojourn on Tenerife is just about over — I’m actually at the airport waiting for my flight back to the mainland — and it’s been an interesting couple of days. It’s a place I wouldn’t mind coming back to someday and exploring further. There are a number of things I wanted to but didn’t get to see, which I’m blaming mostly on my inability to drive stick shift and trepidation about negotiating some of the supposedly treacherous roads. Among them were the primary attraction here, the Pico del Teide volcano, as well as the native black-sand beaches and some of the rock pools I read about. I also didn’t get to the town of Garachico on the western coast (which had been recommended), nor the southern part of the island (where most of the tourists go).
Regarding the latter, I’m sort of glad I didn’t make it to the south. It sounds a tad tacky — an English-speaking friend I made here likened it to Atlantic City, and I don’t think she meant that as a compliment — and overcrowded with English and German tourists and the establishments that cater to them. By contrast, I spent my time (both by necessity and design) exclusively in the north, in La Laguna and Santa Cruz. The old town of La Laguna — primarily known a college town — is a Unesco World Heritage Site, so I was happy to walk around and admire some of the beautiful buildings. From there, then it was a quick tram ride to Santa Cruz, the biggest city on the island, where I spent another pleasant afternoon wandering around before seeing the kickoff of Wilco’s Spanish tour at the Auditorio de Tenerife that night.
What I liked (and found a tiny bit challenging) about Santa Cruz was that there didn’t seem to be many English speakers around at all. There aren’t very many foreign places I’ve been to where you don’t see or overhear some group of Americans or Brits at some point. But that was one surprising aspect of Santa Cruz for me: I heard virtually no English spoken. It seemed, for better or worse, like a city in which real people lived and worked. Perhaps that made it not the ideal spot for a tourist to visit, but that was refreshing in a way.
And ultimately, how many places can you sit next to a stunning venue where you’re about to see a show and, while waiting for the doors to open, read a book on a landing that looks out on the ocean toward Africa?

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Wilco//5-23-09//Auditorio de Tenerife, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, SPAIN//support: none
Wilco (the song)/Hummingbird/Hell Is Chrome/Handshake Drugs/IATTBYH/Pot Kettle Black/Ashes of American Flags/Bull Black Nova/You Are My Face/Jesus, etc./Impossible Germany/I’ll Fight/Poor Places>/Reservations>/Spiders (Kidsmoke)//e1: The Late Greats/Hate It Here/Walken/I’m The Man Who Loves You//e2: Misunderstood/I’m A Wheel
Food of the Canaries May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in food, travel.add a comment

These are papas arrugadas con mojo, one of the signature dishes of the Canary Islands. They are essentially new potatoes boiled and served in their skins. (Arrugadas apparently means “wrinkly” in Spanish, so they are literally wrinkly potatoes.) I had them the other night at an awesome little place called Bodegon Viana in La Laguna, Tenerife. They really good, but quite salty. I wasn’t sure, at the time, which was the mojo sauce; subsequently, I learned that they both are.
Just saying, it’s not always waterfalls and rainbows May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in travel.1 comment so far
I’m sitting at a Starbucks in a relatively deserted corner of Madrid Barajas airport, drinking an iced latte and waiting for my connecting flight to Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos). Tough life, right? But especially on long journeys like this one, I’m reminded that traveling isn’t always as great as it sounds. It can be tiring, confusing and soul-crushing, sometimes simultaneously. Luckily I’ve had a pretty uneventful trip so far, but I’m not there yet. By the time I get to Tenerife, I will have been in transit for more than 24 hours with all the griminess and fatigue that entails. And I’m sure that my blood pressure has gone up at least a few ticks from stressing about making my flight to London Gatwick last night (rush-hour traffic on the Van Wyck Expressway) and worrying about whether my bag will make it (checked through on three separate flights=many opportunities to get lost).

If you’ve got unlimited financial resources or someone taking care of all the details, then I suppose travel is pretty easy. But if you’re trying to do it, more or less, on your own, then it gets tougher. Aside from the things I’ve already mentioned, you’re also worried about whether you’ve complied with all of the different luggage restrictions (weight, liquids, number of bags); about being able to function when you don’t really speak the primary language in a given country; about whether reservations and arrangements you’ve made on the Internet will all work out and what you’ll do if you don’t. And that’s on top of your normal travel concerns like being pickpocketed or otherwise robbed, losing or breaking something important and just getting around.
Then there are instances when you might do everything right and still run into problems. I witnessed this on a very small scale while waiting to clear security for my flight from London to Madrid. Right in front of me in line was a slightly harried Italian couple with a small child. They had with them what looked like a souvenir umbrella — a full-length one, with a wooden tip — still wrapped in its plastic sheath. Evidently, they had no problem carrying it on the plane with them in New York, but they were told they couldn’t bring it through now. When the man protested, he was told, “That’s New York, this is England.” If they wanted to bring the umbrella with them, they would have to go back to the ticket counter, check it and then go through security again. To me, that would be the height of frustration because how are you supposed to know that? Ultimately, I realize I’m extremely fortunate to travel as much as I do, so don’t cry for me. But I think it’s also worth pointing out that being the proverbial stranger in a strange land isn’t a total cakewalk either.
UPDATE: Somewhat miraculously, my bag actually arrived without incident in Tenerife! I must commend British Airways and Iberia and the entire OneWorld alliance on this one. Muchas gracias!
To and fro May 23, 2009
Posted by bbop in friends, music, travel.Tags: Bill Frisell, Flight of the Conchords, John Doe, Jon Brion, Leonard Cohen, Martin Rivas, Nels Cline, Old 97's, Pronto, Robbie Fulks, Sara Watkins, Sharon Jones, Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings, St. Vincent, Stained Radiance, Steve Earle, Theresa Andersson, Tim Easton, Wilco
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In the interest of keeping things relatively in the present, as I promised, I figured I should give a quick (or perhaps not-so-quick) update of what I’ve been up to in recent weeks…

About a month ago, I hit the road for a week in the South. A certain band I like did a short southern series of shows, of which I caught the ones in Athens, Ga., Asheville, N.C., Birmingham, Ala., Oxford, Miss., and finally New Orleans. I think my favorite venue easily was Sloss Furnaces in Birmingham. It’s an old ironworks turned into a National Historic Landmark where they now hold the occasional concert. I had pretty low expectations for this show, but the memorable setting seemed to energize the band. And when a member of their road crew surprised the band by coming out shirtless to play cowbell on the last song, well, it just seemed to put an exclamation point on the evening.

After the final show of the tour at Jazz Fest in New Orleans, I made my way up to Madison, Wis., via Chicago (haha) to see Flight of the Conchords with Brianne. I had seen both of their shows in New York, but it was nice to be able to focus on some specific aspects of the show since I sort of knew what to expect overall. And any show with “Albi, the Racist Dragon” is a winner for me. Brianne was gracious enough to have me over at her house for a few days and so I stuck around for Robbie Fulks’ 50-Vc. All-Stars show (with Jenny Scheinman and Nora O’Connor, among others) at the end of that week. I also went to Miller Park in Milwaukee for the first time to take in a Brewers game with some friends; visited the New Glarus Brewing Company and had a nice meal in that Swiss-tinged small town; and scored a nice vinyl haul at Strictly Discs, a very cool record store in Madison.
A brief weekend stopover in Chicago followed, where I attended my first Cubs game of the season (a win over the Florida Marlins on an absolutely gorgeous afternoon when the team retired the No. 31 jersey of Ferguson Jenkins and Greg Maddux). That night, I also caught the Old 97’s show at the Cubby Bear. It was one of two shows they did that weekend as the headliners of WXRT’s Cinco de Mayo celebration and I didn’t have very lofty expectations, but they dusted off some old gems such as 504 and W-I-F-E, so it was better than I thought.
Back home, I found out about St. Vincent’s free in-store at the Virgin Megastore Union Square in time to attend and get my pre-ordered copy of her new album Actor signed. It’s hard to believe that by the end of May, there will no longer be a Virgin Megastore in New York. The following night, I made it to three different shows — Tim Easton at Mercury Lounge, John Doe with the Sadies at City Winery and the last hour or so of Martin Rivas and Craig Meyer’s Wednesday Night Campfire at Prohibition. All were pretty stellar. A couple of days later it was off to Washington, D.C., for a couple of days to go to two shows by Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings at the 9:30 Club with Heidi. We both love SJ and the DKs, so I had a lot of fun dancing (not onstage, of course) and hanging out with her. But it was a quick trip because I wanted to get back home in time for a rare solo set by Nels Cline at the Stone. Nels says he’s terrified of playing by himself, but I thought it was a strong effort even with some of his gear breaking down mid-set. It was Mother’s Day and he closed with “Cymbidium” from his latest record Coward, a piece dedicated to his late mother. It was really touching.
Shortly thereafter, I headed to Los Angeles for about five days. I hadn’t planned all that far in advance on making this trip, but things seemed to align on the Largo at the Coronet calendar with some shows I had wanted to check out. And thanks to the graciousness of Andrew and Evonne, who lent their couches, I was able to swing it. So I got to see Theresa Andersson, a New Orleans-by-way-of-Sweden singer-songwriter whose most recent album Hummingbird, Go! was a favorite recent discovery; Sara Watkins, whose new self-titled record is really solid; and, of course, Jon Brion. I’m really glad I got to see all three shows. Seeing Andersson live is quite fascinating because of all the looping she does to construct her songs. Watkins’ return to Largo for the first time since her record came out was, of course, a special occasion and she had a terrific band for this gig that included Benmont Tench and her brother, Sean, as well as Sebastian Steinberg and Greg Leisz. And Brion is trying some different things out lately, using some multimedia elements with film loops playing behind him on a screen while he puts music to them, for instance, and focusing on playing strictly by himself without his usual cadre of special guests.
Another reason why I decided to make this LA trip was an opportunity to catch a show by Scarnella (Nels Cline and Carla Bozulich) and Pronto (Mikael Jorgensen’s side project). They played at the Mint, a small throwback of a club in Hollywood. The Scarnella set instead became a Stained Radiance gig, as it turned out, because Carla couldn’t make it that night. Stained Radiance is a duo Nels plays in with the painter Norton Wisdom, who paints on a big, illuminated screen while Nels adds his unique brand of improvised sound. Pronto, which I had seen a few times back on the East Coast, continues to become more cohesive as a working band each time I see them. So it was a good night, all in all. During my stay I also got to see a free in-store by Steve Earle at Amoeba Records, where he was promoting his latest release, Townes. My only regret was not being able to stay in town longer to see a few of the other shows I wanted to, including a performance by Scarnella — playing along to the Lon Chaney silent film “Laugh Clown Laugh” — with an opening set by Bobb Bruno.
But I couldn’t stay because I had a (really expensive) ticket to see Leonard Cohen at Radio City Music Hall the following night. I could write a lengthy post just about that show, but suffice it to say, I’m glad I saw him at least once. He is a charismatic, elegant performer and even though I wasn’t tremendously familiar with his repertoire beyond the big “hits,” I found myself captivated for much of the show. He played for close to three hours and although I think the show was stretched out a bit more than it needed to be with some questionable arrangements — some lengthy horn solos were reminiscent of bad smooth jazz at times — how many times to you get to see a legend?
And finally, on one of my last nights in town before leaving for Europe, I got a chance to see two terrific shows: a semi-secret gig by Bill Frisell and his 858 Quartet at the tiny Barbes in Brooklyn and an all-original show by the Martin Rivas Band (hilariously dubbed, for this performance, anyway, The Crunchy Fudge-Nut Ice Cream Bar Boys) at the Bitter End. From what I understand, the 858 Quartet — a string quartet with Frisell on electric guitar in place of one of the violins in a traditional string quartet — hadn’t played together in quite awhile and I was grateful to have heard about this intimate performance from an inside source. And seeing one of Martin’s shows where he plays his own songs is always a great time. I think the songs on his forthcoming Sea of Clouds record sound better each time I hear them. It was a fitting way to close out a very busy few weeks.
Crossroads May 19, 2009
Posted by bbop in comebacks, technology.add a comment
For the few of you who might actually check in on this blog from time to time, I apologize yet again for being such a complete and utter slacker about updating. I realize that it’s been several months since I’ve posted anything and literally over a year, I think, since I’ve posted about what I’ve been up to in the present (or at least the recent past). It feels kind of weird to be writing this, but with the rise of Twitter and Facebook, I’ve honestly thought about whether it’s practical or worthwhile to even continue blogging. Has it already become passé?
I’ve come to the conclusion that I want to keep doing it, though I think I probably need to start running this thing like an actual blog. That is, update more frequently; make shorter posts; and not wait for a bunch of things to build up before writing about them, as I know I’ve done more often than not. I’m sure I’ve said most of this before, but for what it’s worth, I’m rededicating myself. With a busy couple of months ahead, including a jaunt to España over the next couple of weeks, there should be plenty to post about and I’ll endeavor to do so. Stay tuned. Or not.
If you do check in here every now and again, you’ll know tht I’ve repeatedly promised to “catch up” with updates of what I’ve been up to since last May when I last posted about current goings-on. (Embarrassingly I’ve had half of the May 2008 update written for months now, but never seem to get around to finishing it.) Anyway, since it’s been more than a year now and I’m certain no one — probably not even me — cares about what I did months and months ago, I guess I will officially cut the strings on the update plan. Maybe if the well really runs dry sometime, I’ll reconfigure the updates as a “looking back” series or something to that effect. But for now, in blogging as well as in life, I think it’s generally a good idea to not dwell on the past and live in the present.